Written by Bridget Williams  

Fuzzy-headed and bleary-eyed from jet-lag and with daylight still hours away in this Nordic nation, I felt like I'd stumbled into a futuristic utopian society focused on wellness as I crossed the threshold of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon. Staring out a tall window behind the reception desk, I surveyed frothy, milky blue water covered with a gauzy layer of steam that lapped at the low-slung brutalist-style concrete building whose designed mimicked the surrounding vast lunar-like landscape devoid of trees.  

Guests shuffled by in fluffy robes, a look of complete contentment on their faces, while a New-Agey soundtrack sprinkled with lyrics sung in a language imperceptible from my own kept the sounds of the whistling winter winds at bay. One of a bevy of rosy-cheeked hosts appeared with a pot of tea, and I could feel my senses awaken with every sip.   

I knew that this was going to be a stopover like no other. 

Begun in the 1960s and taking off in the early aughts, Icelandair's layover program allows travelers to book a three-day stopover in the country on the way to or from major European cities for less than merely booking a fare with a transfer in Reykjavik Airport. 

It takes just over twenty minutes to go from airport to awe. Fortified by the tea and armed with my rubber room key bracelet, I opened the door to my Moss Junior Suite and knew this was as close as I'd ever get to feeling like a Bond girl. With an expertly executed lighting scheme comprising small light points only where necessary, my guestroom was a modern minimalist's dream. The entrance door perfectly aligned with the floor to ceiling windows looking out to an expansive moss-covered lava field as well as a twisting tributary of the UNESCO Global Geopark. Black plaster walls, nubby putty-colored upholstery, and a mossy green coverlet on the bed carried through on the inside-out theme. Austere but not soulless, the environs invite a measure of introspection and conjure up feelings of inner strength.   

A selection of natural Blue Lagoon skincare products created from the bioactive elements of geothermal seawater, silica, algae, and minerals was arrayed on the vanity, inside the walk-in shower tricked out with an Axor brushed black chrome shower system, and on the rim of the deep soaking tub positioned in front of the window. While smart technology is integrated within the rooms, tv's are absent, and thoughtful touches like throws made from Icelandic wool soften the contemporary edges.   

Opened in 2018, the 62-suite Retreat is literally built into and around the contours of the famous 800-year-old lava fields that serve as the Blue Lagoon’s basin. Guests are privy to 10,000-square-feet of crowd-free soaking in the geothermal, anti-bacterial, and silica-rich waters, purported to improve psoriasis and eczema and prevent premature aging. Having been to the public area just a few months prior and experiencing the often raucous, selfie-centric crowd, having the lagoon nearly all to myself felt like a dream. 

Using nature as a guide, a cinematic sense of drama pervades. Sigríður Sigþórsdóttir, the Retreat's architect, slept in the lava fields to work out the ideal site placement. Restaurants use custom ebony dinnerware from Royal Crown Derby and Villeroy & Boch. In the corridor that leads to the subterranean spa, amber light filters through the perforated porous material of the walls to create an incandescent lava effect. Doors boasting the heft of a bank vault slide open to reveal myriad treasures contained on the other side.  

Cell phones are prohibited in the cavernous 44,000-square-foot spa facility, which was staffed by an army of Alexander Skarsgård-lookalike attendants. Just past the reception desk is a dine-in-your-robe restaurant serving up hearty and healthy cuisine with a side of unobstructed lagoon views. There are several indulgent relaxation rooms, including a windowless one with a cozy fireplace, and another with fun hanging Nest chairs facing the lagoon. Plunge pools, a steam room, a sauna, and a unique lava spring are all part of this adult playground. 

I kicked off my spa experience with an in-water massage, an awkward dance that was part disorientation, and part relaxation thanks to Mother Nature. Suspended on a float with ear warmers blocking outside noise, the warm towels covering body parts not submerged in the warm waters stood in sharp contrast to the icy raindrops that needled my face. Despite the challenging conditions, my therapist did an outstanding job, and we shared a few genuine laughs along the way.   

The  algae  found in the  Blue Lagoon' s seawater is so unique that it's patented, and the spa's self-guided multi-step Blue Lagoon Ritual incorporates products made from the algae for exclusive use in the spa. I can say I indulged in the treatment each day to reap the skin-soothing and smoothing benefits. Before you leave, make sure to stop by the Retreat's gift shop for exclusive skincare products. Trust me, your skin will thank you for it. 

Dining is just as dreamy as the design. Breakfast is served in a sunken lounge area defined by a large expanse of floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lagoon. So cool is the 60-seat Moss Restaurant that it has its own channel on Spotify. We indulged in a stunningly plated multi-course menu that celebrated the diversity of Icelandic cuisine. A Chef's Table within Moss offers an intimate seven-course gourmet journey served on a table made of lava rock quarried on site.   

Oenophiles won't want to miss taking a trip underground to the Wine Cellar, carved in situ from multi-hued lava spewed forth from an eruption in 1226. Old World wines with a heavy concentration on French varietals anchor the expansive list, but there is also an exciting lineup of New World producers from the Americas and Australia. 

As tempting as it was to soak in the lagoon all day, my pruned skin begged for some dry-land activity. On property, there is a well-equipped fitness room, morning yoga, and guided hikes. The number of endeavors you can engage in off-property limited only by the available time. Hosts can arrange excursions, including driving an ATV across black sand beaches and around extinct volcanoes, touring the Reykjanes Peninsula in a chauffeur-driven luxury sedan, or taking a speedier tour of the highlights via helicopter. If you hope to spy the Northern Lights, you can let the hosts know to alert you should they make an appearance. 

Demonstrating the power of good design that makes this natural wonder even more wonderful, the Retreat at the Blue Lagoon is apropos for both a layover or a longer linger. 

Rooms at The Retreat begin at $1,264/night. For more information or reservations, visit bluelagoon.com/accommodation/retreat-hotel.