The Grand Hotel Tremezzo has provided luxurious la dolce vita on Lake Como for over a century.

by Bridget Williams / Photos courtesy of The Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Passalacqua and Villa Sola Cabiati

Third-generation hotelier Valentina De Santis is not in the business of making her guests cry. Still, it occasionally happens, recalls Gregory Bradelle, Manager of Passalacqua, the crown jewel of the De Santis' family holdings on Lake Como. During a recent visit, he recounted that several guests, upon the stunning setting of the Bellini suite (the largest on the lake at 2,600 square feet), have been brought to tears by its grandeur. In response, Valentina, whose sunny disposition elicits the sun's gravitational pull, making you want to remain in her orbit to bask in her innate gioia di vivere as long as possible, threw her head back in laughter.

Lake Como is a dreamy destination on its own, and embellishing the fantasy is all in a day's work for a woman who fondly remembers childhood summers spent as a real-life Eloise in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, the first hotel on Lake Como and one of its most legendary. As an only child, Valentina says she regarded the hotel as her personal castle, with her reigning (and running the halls) as its princess. This past spring, the princess of pop, Taylor Swift, made another of the DeSantis' properties —Villa Sola Cabiati—"Insta famous" when she and Travis Kelce stayed at the exquisitely restored 12-bedroom, 16th-century lakefront villa, which typically rents for $21,000 /night.

While her welcoming hospitality is innate and effortless, Valentina's attention to detail is quite intentional and calculated, down to the staff's Lega tennis shoes emblazed with the hotel's logo—in orange at Grand Hotel Tremezzo and yellow at Pasqualina. 

The Grand Hotel Tremezzo—situated across the lake from the boutique-lined cobblestone streets of Bellagio, the snow-capped peaks of the Grigne Mountains, and right next door to the splendiferous gardens of Villa Carlotta—is my embodiment of a postcard-perfect version of a Lake Como holiday. My lakefront accommodation, suitable for a baroness, was outfitted with fine antiques—heavy on marquetry and ormolu, along with lush fabrics with a nice hand and substantial trim—personally selected by Valentina and her parents. The overall effect projects a playful attitude and a feminine touch. Fabulously fussy, the De Santis' have created a dreamscape with a unique sense of place that even a modernist like me appreciates for its craftsmanship and enduring appeal. 

Each morning, after heading downstairs for an early Americano and a selection of cheese and charcuterie from the elegant breakfast buffet spread complete with polished silver serving pieces, I spent time on my lakefront balcony, where the elevated perch provided a cinematic-like view of the vignette below: smartly attired staff delivering an Aperol Spritz to guests lounging on orange and white beanbags arrayed around the deck of the floating pool; an iconic and alluring Riva Aquariva, with a gleaming mahogany deck and retro baby blue leather trim, bobbing near mooring poles dressed in a coordinating color scheme; and, patrons parked on orange-cushioned seats savoring fresh seafood in the alfresco setting of Giacomo Al Lago, an outpost of the Giacomo Milano, founded by Giacomo Bulleri in 1958. In short, an ideal idyll.

It's a delicate dance for a century-old hotel to remain simultaneously relevant and true to its roots, and the Grand Hotel Tremezzo does it with aplomb. My last visit was nearly a decade ago. I was thrilled to see things that I loved, starting with the superbly hospitable staff, along with a self-service candy station arrayed on a marble-topped credenza at the terminus of the grand staircase, a steep hiking trail leading to a fantastic viewpoint behind the hotel, and the jewel-toned upholstery in the Salon Musica remained. At the same time, ongoing tweaks and enhancements to guestrooms, amenities, and restaurants create a renewed sense of interest and excitement even for clients who've been returning for decades.

A collection of 18th-century buildings, once part of a tiny village, sit adjacent to the 85-room hotel and have been thoughtfully retrofitted for modern purposes. These include the T Spa, complete with a Turkish bath and a lakeview sauna, a supremely equipped four-story fitness center, and a wine cellar with a barrel-vaulted ceiling that hosts sommelier-guided tastings from 300-plus labels on offer. We enjoyed an exploration of Nebbiolo, a full-bodied wine rarely grown outside its primary production area in Piedmont, Italy.

A well-curated gift shop highlights pieces from the De Santis' Sense of Lake collection. A project borne out of the second COVID lockdown, Valentina said it provided an outlet to connect with guests through collaborations with brands they admire to create everything from custom-scented candles and toiletries to silk dresses, hats, and swim trunks. Announced in early summer, a partnership with London-based fashion designer Emilia Wickstead resulted in a limited-edition vacation-wear capsule collection in prints inspired by Lake Como's elegant surroundings and verdant landscape.

There are five restaurants on the property. Should you not be able to tear yourself away from the hotel's luxury confines during your stay, the diversity of the dining program allows for buon gusto from early morning to late-night digestifs in the T Bar.   At T Pizza, a casual poolside woodfired pizza spot surrounded by lush gardens, you can make your own from scratch under the direction of a master pizzaiolo. Leave the cooking to the experts at La Terrazza, the only restaurant in the world offering the most famous dishes by Gualtiero Marchesi (1930-2017), regarded as the founder of new Italian Cuisine, and the first chef in Italy to ever gain three Michelin stars. Grand Hotel Tremezzo's Executive Chef, Osvaldo Presazz, is uniquely endowed to carry on the culinary maestro's legacy, having worked side-by-side with him. Don't miss Dripping di Pesce, an edible tribute to Jackson Pollock, and the ahh-inducing Riso, ro e zafferano, topped with saffron and a square of edible gold (those who order the iconic dish receive a gold-leaf-embellished certificate at the meal's conclusion).

And, while a luxury lockdown is certainly tempting, it would be a shame not to explore the area. The best way to enjoy Como is by water, and the Grand Hotel Tremezzo's marina keeps a fleet of vintage speedboats for guest charter. Accessorize with oversized sunglasses and a silk headscarf to feel like Sophia Loren while cruising around. Como has historically been a significant producer of silk; a public ferry runs throughout the day and evening to Bellagio, where there's a plethora of silk purveyors. Grab a sunset aperitif at Hotel du Lac's rooftop bar before returning. 

Located on the tip of a small, wooded peninsula, Villa Barbienello, made even more famous by appearances in Casino Royale and Star Wars: Episode II Attack of the Clones (including a kissing scene between Anakin Skywalker and Padmé Amidala), is a gardener's paradise. With a history dating back to a Franciscan monastery in the 13th century, it was most recently owned by Count Guido Monzino, a businessman, antiquities and antiques collector and explorer, who donated the property to the National Trust of Italy after his death. Navigating the throngs of would-be influencers and Star Wars devotees recreating "the kiss" can be challenging; booking an interior tour through the Hotel's concierge provides a fascinating glimpse into the eccentric life of Monzino, a man who dedicated an entire floor to showcase his explorations, which included leading the first Italian expedition to Mount Everest. 

Villa Carlotta, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo's next-door neighbor, is 14th century villa-turned art and house museum and botanical garden with 20 acres of formal gardens, including 150 varieties of azalea, a citrus tree allée, exotic plants, and water features. If you're looking for a longer walk, jump onto the Lake Como Greenway, a six-mile path that passes through seven different towns and along ancient Roman roads, historic churches, and stunning viewpoints. By water or walking, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo provides a luxurious home base for exploring this magical destination. 

For more information visit: grandhoteltremezzo.com/en/; passalacqua.it/en/; senseoflake.com.