East Meets West: The Rise of Japanese Whisky
Written by Claire Williams
The Land of the Rising Sun has given Westerners plenty of things to geek over, including sushi, samurai, and sake. And now, Japan has mastered a Western classic: whisky. You can put away your choko (traditional Sake glass) and exchange it for a glass tumbler as demand for Japanese whisky continues to explode. In 2022, the Japanese whiskey market was valued at $3.86 billion and is forecasted to triple in value in the next ten years. Comparatively, the US whisky market is valued at $62 billion. Still, the Westerners have also had over five centuries to perfect their craft. The first written records of whisky appeared in Scotland and Ireland in the 15th century, and it would take four centuries for those distilling techniques to migrate to Japan.
While the companies that have sprung forth from the two godfathers of Japanese whisky—Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru—exist as rivals today, both were vital to the other's success during their lifetimes. In 1899, Torii opened his first store, Kotobukiya (known today now as Suntory), one of the first stores to sell imported alcoholic beverages, specializing in wine, but he dreamed of creating his own spirit. As his company grew, despite opposition from his executives, he decided to establish a distillery in a suburb of Kyoto, a well-known area for its excellent water quality, and where the legendary tea master Sen no Rikyu, a seminal influence on the Japanese "Way of Tea," built his tearoom.
Torri hired Taketsuru to run his distillery, as both men shared a similar vision of the future of Japanese whiskey. Taketsuru was born into a family of sake brewers. He set off to study chemistry in Scotland in the early 1900s, where he fell in love with Scottish whiskey and women (he wed Jseeie Roberta "Rita" Cowan in 1920 despite opposition from both families). After moving back to Japan a year later, Taketsuru helped Torri establish his distillery.
The men worked together for over a decade, releasing Japan's first whisky, Suntory Shirofuda, in 1929, almost one hundred years after the first bottles of whisky were sold in the United States. Five years later, Taketsuru founded his distillery on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, where he believed the local terroir resembled Scotland's more closely. Taketsuru's company, now known as Nikka, sold its first whisky in 1940. The company was taken over and expanded by Taketsuru's adopted son after his and his wife's death. After the Second World War, Japanese whisky gained traction and popularity on the island nation.
The two distilleries fought for the top position in the 1950s as drinking whisky with Japanese food became increasingly popular. In many bars and izakaya, the "bottle keep" system, where customers could purchase a bottle of liquor and have the unfinished portion stored until the next visit, took root, as well as the popular style of drinking mizuwari (two parts of cold water mixed with one part of the spirit and some ice), which most Western whisky purists frown upon. After a decline in the 1980s, Japanese whisky rebounded in the 2000s in part due to the highball craze and Japanese whiskies garnering numerous awards and accolades. Nikka's 10-year Yoichi single malt kicked it off when they won "Best of the Best" at Whisky Magazine's awards in 2001.
The "terroir" of Hokkaido lends itself to making excellent whisky due to its superior water quality, a climate that leads to faster maturation (producing whisky that tastes older than it is), and high elevation that results in a more flavorful, aromatic, silky smooth whisky.
Japanese whisky has found a way to marry the techniques of Scottish and American whisky styles to create its own avenue that's now become a global phenomenon. Scotch lovers find themselves drawn to Japanese whisky, as the foundation of Japanese whisky was forged in Scottish distilling techniques. However, Japanese whiskey has now taken on a life of its own: the student has become the master. Many distilleries in Japan also import Scottish ingredients to use in their whiskies, such as peat, making it more reminiscent of those dry and smoky styles.
Contrary to this, Japan is currently making its own traditions regarding whisky, similar to American whisky pioneers who enjoy experimenting and trying new flavor profiles even today. The Japanese carefully consider the water used, the boiling point given the altitude of the distillery, and local wood varieties to craft their barrels (a well-known variety is known as the rare Japanese oak tree called Mizurana). All of these give their whisky a unique taste not found anywhere else.
While Japan has an impressive range of whiskies, knowing your preferences will help you find your perfect match. If you enjoy rye whiskey, you know it often has a drier, peppery, and spicier finish than other American whiskies. You'll likely find most Japanese whiskies pleasant on the palette as they generally resemble rye whiskies. An excellent starting bottle for beginners is Suntory's Yamazaki 12-Year-Old Single Malt, which is the core expression of their single malt range and one of their brand's most well-known bottles. The whisky is floral and fruity, and its notes are similar to Scottish whiskies, but it also has a style that's very much its own. Nikka's Yoichi Single Malt is for Scottish whisky fans looking for a lightly peated whisky balanced by tropical fruits and caramel flavors on the palette.
If you're more of a bourbon fan and enjoy a smoother, sweeter whisky, Nikka's Coffey Grain Whisky is made with a majority of corn in the grain mash, giving it a sweeter, creamier finish. Nikka's From the Barrel Whiskey has notes of caramel, vanilla, and oak that Bourbon drinkers would love.
For those who want to have the full "When in Rome" experience, Suntory's Toki Whisky is an ideal choice for highballs. It is a blend of whiskies with notes of pink grapefruit, almonds, and a light vanilla finish. Pair it with sparkling water and a lemon for the perfect highball.
As the American whisky craze rages on, Japanese whisky offers an unexpected compliment to an already booming industry with new styles and unique flavor profiles. Japanese whisky is another opportunity for connoisseurs to fall in love with whisky once again and raise a glass to the future of whisky ripe with innovation; kanpai!