Laurence Basse Returns to NYFW with "Burn This City" Collection

Compiled by Bridget Williams / Runway photos by Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com / Portrait of Laurence Basse by Britt Carpenter Studios, courtesy of Laurence Basse

The road to prominence in the fashion world is rarely straight and smooth. French designer and leather expert Laurence Basse's journey to her first solo runway show during New York Fashion Week began decades ago. After being discovered by Jean-Paul Gaultier in the late nineties, Basse, a native of Normandie, France, used the money she made as a print and runway model to go to fashion school in Paris. "I loved to dress up as a kid but never thought of becoming a designer until my brother and I started making clothes in high school. We sold our clothes to the more privileged kids, so it became a hustle! People were hustling drugs, I was hustling clothes," said Basse.

Fans of Project Runway may recognize Basse as a season 15 finalist (2006) and a season 20 "All-Star" runner-up (2023). While these appearances helped elevate her status as a fashion designer, her unwavering commitment to detail and structure is what continues to garner fans, including NBA superstars Dwight Howard and Serge Ibaka, Jada Pickett Smith, actor Aldis Hodge, Grammy winner Samara Joy, and comedian/actor Yvonne Orji.

Basse's "Burn This City" FW24 collection was heavy on leather, her signature material, to which she added denim, silk, and wool. Building on a base of black, Basse incorporated tones of pink, blue, green, and sheer metallic. She collaborated with jewelry designer Mr. O Atelier to create custom-designed chain-link jewelry worn by nearly every model.

After her successful runway show, we had the opportunity to ask Basse a few questions about her long career in fashion and what's on the horizon for LAURENCE BASSE PARIS.

SL: As someone with a self-profession passion for "well-designed things," what made you gravitate to leather as your preferred material?

LB: I love intricate, simple, and well-made clothes, and I already perfected working with all types of different fabrics. I needed to challenge myself, and I thought that leather was perfect for many reasons: I always thought that leather was only accessible to the rich, and I loved leather but couldn't afford it, so what better challenge than to teach myself? That's how we fell in love (leather and me).

SL: How did you remain relevant in the fashion industry between fashion school and your breakout appearances on Project Runway?

LB: Between the time I left fashion school in Paris and created my LBP line, over 15 years went by, and I never left the fashion world. I was modeling in Paris and NYC during that time and learning the flip side of that business. Of course, it was a struggle to remain in the fashion industry, but when you love what you do as much as I do, there is no other way! I've been in fashion for so long that it's part of my DNA. I never felt pressured to have my work go in a different direction to appeal to a larger audience… that's just not me and never was! I'm an artist and a rebel at heart; I do what I feel, and if you feel me, you'll rock with me. No one can please everyone; that's why you have different brands and different styles.

SL: Describe what it felt like to have your first solo show at NYFW. Do you have a favorite piece in the collection?

LB: It's a dream come true, definitely a milestone in my design career. It was made possible by my incredible team, led by my dear, long-time super-talented friend, MyKel C. Smith.

I have several favorite pieces, but if I have to pick one, I'll go with the all-black leather long skirt (mermaid vibes) and cropped leather jacket with short sleeves and an exaggerated collar.

SL: What inspires you?

LB: My inspiration comes from everything outside of me, just LIFE and how I feel at the moment of creating. Art is a vessel of communication for me. I am literally inspired by everything around me... it's a gift that keeps on giving. I am never short of ideas...they just keep coming… I'm blessed.

SL: Who is your ideal client?

LB: I have two ideal clients. One of them inspired me during my youth and was instrumental: Grace Jones. My new school client, who has that je ne sais quoi, is none other than Rihanna.

SL: What is the future of LAURENCE BASSE PARIS?

LB: The future of LBP is limitless. We will be a household name next to the GUCCI's and ST. LAURENT's of this fashion game. Let's go BIG or go home… and we ain't going home!

For more information, follow on Instagram @laurencebasse or visit laurencebasse.com.

Runway-Ready Fashion by Laurence

Girl on Fire