Giulio the Truffle Hunter and The Elusive White Truffle

by Craig Kaminer

Most everyone has heard of truffles, in their purest form as a subterranean mushroom or as an infused oil, salt or cheese available in gourmet shops around the world. In the United States, truffles fetch spectacular prices at restaurants and it's not uncommon to pay $100 or more to add shaved truffles to everything from pasta to pizza. But in Italy, truffles are found virtually everywhere during the various truffle seasons – if you know where to look – and can be added to almost any dish at local restaurants for just $10 or $20.

Don’t get me wrong; a large white truffle weighing 2 pounds has been purchased in the last couple of years for more than $100,000, but that is a rarity. If the price of adding truffles to your dinner sounds like the cost of a 3-course dinner, pass. You are being gouged.

This past fall, my wife and I spent a month in Florence living as locals and we discovered Giulio the Truffle Hunter at the recommendation of our Airbnb host, Sophia. Before booking the experience, I researched all of the truffle hunters carefully to see what would work best for my wife, me, and three adult kids. Some truffle hunters were highly rated but it took a half day to get to them and they insisted we stay overnight at their bed and breakfast. Closer ones were too expensive and would end up filling the majority of the day. On the other hand, Giulio, (the focus of many articles and TV shows) was a15-minute cab ride away from the center of Florence in Bagno a Ripoli, and we could hunt for truffles then have a truffle lunch before departing for a full afternoon back in Florence. At $200-$250 per person, the experience wasn't inexpensive but considering the experience in total, the lunch and wine, and then the truffles we took home, it was worth it and an unforgettable part of our trip. Giulio is a charming guy, full of stories and life experiences (he is a sailor, like me) and we have become friends since, catching up with him every month or so. As I discovered, everyone needs a truffle hunter friend!

Our short taxi ride from Florence to the hills overlooking the city brought us to Giulio’s home, which he uses to educate, entertain and nourish his guests. We knew we had arrived when we discovered the Giulio the Truffle Hunter sign at the end of his driveway and heard his team of extremely excited truffle dogs, the Lagotto Romagnolos he has raised since pups. As we learned later, the dogs know there will be a truffle hunt when there are new guests at the house and the dogs like nothing more than to hunt for truffles.

The truffle experience took place in three parts: the classroom-like setting learning everything you ever wanted to know about truffles; the hunt itself just a short walk from Giulio’s home; and the expertly prepared 3-course lunch.

While we admittedly thought we would spend the entire time hunting for truffles, Giulio first educated us about the different types, the seasons, what makes a good truffle, and how to know if those offered at a restaurant are worth the price. Of course, my kids gave me a look like they wanted to get out of there and search for truffles right away, but in hindsight the classroom experience was invaluable. What we thought we knew was not the case.We learned there are five types of edible truffles, they grow year round, they are actually mushrooms that grow underground, the white truffle is the most coveted, and the freshness of a truffle is determined by touch, not smell or color.

Craig and Debbie Kaminer go truffle hunting guided by Giulio.

PJ Kaminer shows one of the seven black winter truffles we unearthed during our hunt.

Truffle hunting is not just a matter of luck; it requires skill, knowledge, and a deep connection to the land. Truffle hunters often rely on intuition, reading the terrain, and understanding the subtle signs that point to the presence of truffles. They look for specific types of soil, certain trees, and even the behavior of their canine companions, whose excitement and focused attention signal a potential find.

The dogs play a crucial role in the success of the truffle hunt. Trained from an early age, they learn to associate the distinctive scent of truffles with rewards, usually in the form of treats. As the dog picks up the scent, it becomes a game of teamwork and communication between the hunter and their four-legged companion.

The thrill of the hunt lies in the uncertainty of what lies beneath the soil. A subtle dig or scrape reveals the hidden truffle, and the moment of discovery is met with excitement and satisfaction. It's a dance between nature, tradition, and the joy of uncovering a culinary gem.

Tuscany is home to various truffle species, each with its own unique characteristics and culinary uses. The white truffle, also known as the "Tuscan White Gold," is among the most prized and expensive truffles globally. Its distinct aroma, reminiscent of garlic and honey, enhances the flavor of dishes without overpowering them.

The black truffle, with its earthy and robust flavor, is another culinary delight found in the Tuscan soil. Used in a variety of dishes, from pasta to risotto, the black truffle adds depth and complexity to the cuisine.

Truffle varieties, like the summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) and the burgundy truffle (Tuber uncinatum), also find their way into Tuscan kitchens, contributing to the diverse and rich tapestry of flavors that characterize the region's gastronomy.

With the coursework complete, Giulio led us on a short walk to the woods where he hunts for the truffles with his top dogs, Tina and Maga, leading the way. When the dogs found a truffle, they would point and, if Giulio or one of us didn’t intervene, start digging for it. The goal is to uncover the truffle, which is usually less than 12 inches under the surface, growing close to the roots of a tree, and often near other truffles. If given the chance, Tina and Maga would dig up the truffles and eat them, so to reward the dogs, Giulio gave the dogs truffle-flavored treats to keep them interested and on the scent.

When the dogs started digging, Giulio used his truffle tool (it looks like a small harpoon used for whaling) to properly dig up the truffle, check the freshness, and store it in his pouch to keep the truffles in perfect shape for the walk back to his home. Our hunt took place in mid-October and our catch was mainly the less aromatic variety of black truffles. We each kept the ones we found and used them for the next few days on scrambled eggs, charcuterie items, and of course with prosciutto and parmesan cheese. Giulio found a good-sized white truffle which he used in our meal following the hunt.

Little did we know, Giulio is an accomplished chef and he masterfully incorporated the black and white truffles into traditional recipes, letting the natural flavors of the truffle shine. From simple dishes like truffle-infused pasta to more elaborate creations like truffle-infused oils, sauces, and even desserts, the culinary possibilities are endless. One iconic Tuscan dish that showcases truffles at their best is the classic tagliolini al tartufobianco, a simple yet luxurious pasta dish. The delicate, thin strands of pasta are dressed in a light butter or olive oil sauce, allowing the aroma and flavor of the white truffle to take center stage. The dish is a celebration of simplicity and the exquisite quality of the truffle.

While truffle hunting is deeply ingrained in Tuscan tradition, it faces challenges in the modern world. Climate change, deforestation, and changes in land use can impact truffle habitats, making the hunt more challenging. Additionally, the growing demand for truffles, both domestically and internationally, has led to concerns about overharvesting and the sustainability of truffle ecosystems. To address these challenges, there is a growing emphasis on sustainable truffle-harvesting practices and conservation efforts. Truffle farms, where truffles are cultivated rather than wild-harvested, have gained popularity as a more sustainable alternative. These farms not only contribute to the preservation of truffle habitats but also ensure a more consistent supply of truffles throughout the year. Conservation organizations and local communities are also working together to raise awareness about the importance of preserving truffle ecosystems. This includes educating the public about responsible harvesting practices, supporting reforestation efforts, and promoting sustainable tourism that benefits both the local economy and the environment.

While the truffles were the main draw, Giulio was a close second. He is quite a character and entertained us throughout the experience. Many credit Giulio for introducing a new format to help international tourists better understand the art of wine and food in Italy. In 1998 he introduced the word “experience” to create the first Italian catalog in wine and food, and opened the first bed & breakfast specializing in wine and food experiences.

Success came almost immediately to Giulio and for almost a decade, he was arguably the only one in Italy to offer wine and food experiences. Over the following years, as the competition grew, Giulio decided to specialize only in truffles. In 2015 he was chosen by Airbnb as the Italian experience ambassador for the launch of their online catalog. The following year Giulio began collaborating with various US television and reality TV producers. The character of Giulio the Truffle Hunter was created and Giulio found himself working for “The Bachelor USA”, “The Pack” on Amazon Prime, and for the Italian guide in the two episodes of “Don’t Be Late For a Party” on Bravo. In 2022 he was chosen by Avalon for the “Anthony Anderson Show”. For English TV he worked for “Travel Man”, finding Rebel Wilson at home as guest of honor on the program. Today his love for truffles has led him to create art, poems and music with truffles as the star. Since 2017 he offers a truffle dinner where together with his band they tell the story of truffles in music. He has completed 12 truffle-themed songs in both English and Italian and for several years, he has appeared in November at the Savoy Hotel in Florence and villas in Tuscany for private events.

If you are heading to Florence anytime soon, I encourage you to call ahead and set up a truffle hunt. I am confident Giulio will treat you like family and he has told me that he would offer a 10 percent discount to anyone who mentions this story.

http://www.giuliothetrufflehunter.com/