For 300 years, the prestigious Bordeaux Maison Château Ducro-Beaucaillou has prided itself on welcoming friends and family for an unforgettable experience in Saint Julien.

by Bridget Williams

Everything in this house is a memory.

Amidst a vast estate of more than 250 acres in the vineyards in the Saint-Julien appellation in the Médoc region, where soils comprised of gravel, marl, and pebbles have produced wines of grace and elegances from before the Napoleonic classification of 1855, sits the jewel of the Ducru-Beaucaillou estate: an impressive building in the Directoire style.

Commissioned by Bertrand Ducru in the 1820s, Parisian architect Paul Abadie's creation boasts a raised ground floor that gracefully follows the natural level of the land, gently sloping towards the banks of the estuary, on which the heavy traffic in the 19th century offered the spectacle of a navy constantly on the move. Two Victorian-era towers, designed by Michel-Louis Garros, winner of the Grand Prix d'Architecture in 1887, impart a majestic configuration upon the original structure.

Surrounding the château is a twelve-acre park conceived by landscape architect Eugène Bühler, a disciple of Michel-Louis Garros. Century-old trees, flower beds, winding paths, a pond, a vegetable garden surrounded by rubble walls and planted with trellised pear trees, and a beautiful wrought-iron greenhouse define the parklands. Statues of Diana, Bacchus, and Demeter are spread among a trio of terraces, positioned so that their faces bask in the sunlight that nourishes the vineyards.

Since 2003, Bruno-Eugène Borie, whose father Jean-Eugène spearheaded a modernization of the property that catapulted Ducru-Beaucaillou's reputation to the highest level in Bordeaux, continues a legacy that traces back to the Age of Enlightenment. The genesis of that intellectual movement is alive and well in Bruno-Eugène, a man of insatiable curiosity and a diverse roster of interests. He introduced sustainable viticulture to the vineyard and contemporary art and design into the chateaux.

Keith Haring, Carl André, Christian Boltanski, Annette Messager, Claude Viallat, Jean-Pierre Raynaud, and Jean-Marc Bustamante are among the roster of artists warmly welcomed to Ducru-Beaucaillou. "My passion for contemporary art, cultivated during visits to the CAPC in Bordeaux, has greatly influenced Ducru's identity," said Bruno-Eugène, adding that one of his favorite recent collaborations was with Alain Ellouz, who created a stunning alabaster stone light that holds a double magnum of 1982 Ducru. "Art challenges us, much like winemaking, to push boundaries while honoring tradition," explained Bruno-Eugène. He asked Jade Jagger to create the "La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou label," and he selected famous Parisian decorator and founder of Maison Sarah, Sarah Poniatowska – a descendant of the admired monarch, Stanislas II of Poland— to lead a refreshment of the château's interiors in advance of the estate's 300th anniversary, resulting in a harmonious marriage of classicism and modernity.

Not only is France the world leader in wine production, but wine has also always been an essential part of the French "savoir vivre" culture, translating into an effortless ability to live with elegance. In 2010, the 'gastronomic meal of the French' was inscribed by UNESCO on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. At Ducru-Beaucaillou, when you step inside the château's kitchen, you glean that the rituals of the table are heavy with memory, meaning, and mood. Bruno-Eugène remarks that he cooks because he can't forget. As he tends a simmering pot-au-feu concocted with vegetables from the garden, he feels the watchful eye of his grandmother. He feels at home in the kitchen and relishes interpreting the local gastronomy without pretense. Rivaling Bruno-Eugène's gastronomic fervor is his wife Frédérique's affinity for floral design and tablescapes, which result in grand seasonal displays in the formal dining room. The grandeur of the estate is tempered by the graciousness of Bruno-Eugène and Frédérique, who are hands-on hosts in their home.

A proud steward of its Second Growth (Deuxième Cru) status from the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux (one of 15), Ducru-Beaucaillou's reasoned approach to viticulture is grounded in heritage and refined through science. Bruno-Eugène regards nature as a "subject of law." Therefore, every procedure in the vineyard respects the entire ecosystem and is innovative and precise in its execution. For instance, the vineyard employs mechanical weeding, judicious grass cover, manure, and quality composts to eliminate herbicide and chemical fertilizer use. "Sustainability is not a new concept; it has been an obsession for vignerons for centuries," said Bruno-Eugène. "At Ducru, it's a mission embedded in every practice, every vintage, and every project we undertake."

We had the opportunity to ask Bruno-Eugène a few questions about the French art and legacy of hospitality in general and his approach in particular:

SL: How would you characterize the French philosophy of entertaining?

B-E: In France, each province and city has its own social customs. Bordeaux is steeped in English culture (300 years) and cosmopolitan influences due to international trade. The city has long been animated by foreign merchants, with trading posts from the Hanseatic League (Bremen, Lübeck, etc.), Scandinavians, the Irish, and even Spanish and Portuguese.

As a result, Bordeaux's philosophy of entertaining is deeply rooted in the art of sharing and savoring life's pleasures. It's not just about the food or the wine—it's about creating a warm, welcoming environment where conversation flows as naturally as the wine. Meals are enjoyed at a leisurely pace, giving time for flavors, stories, and company to be fully appreciated.

In Médoc culture, every meal is a celebration, with meticulous attention to detail, from the choice of wine to the presentation of dishes. At Ducru-Beaucaillou, our family-owned estate embodies this philosophy. We believe that every gathering is an opportunity to share not just a meal but the rich stories behind our wines. Our diverse selection of vintages reflects our commitment to showcasing the evolution of our wines over time. Each wine tells a chapter in the story of our estate, contributing to an experience that is both refined and deeply personal.

Every event at Ducru-Beaucaillou is an invitation to explore these stories, savor the nuances of our wines, and enjoy a tradition of hospitality that values both the small details and the lasting impact of genuine connection. We are open to serving the most exclusive champagnes, white wines, and more.

SL: What is your earliest memory of cooking/entertaining?

B-E: One of my earliest memories of cooking comes from the harvest feasts at Ducru-Beaucaillou when I was a child. Helmut Seidel, a former WWII prisoner who decided to settle here with his family, became our estate chef, cooking for over 200 people twice a day during harvest time. The smell of hearty dishes like pot-au-feu, poule au pot, or bœuf en daube au vin de Médoc simmering in giant cauldrons is something I'll never forget. Those moments gave me a deep appreciation for how food brings people together.

I also fondly remember the grand formal dinners my parents occasionally hosted for important foreign visitors in the château's grand dining room. These elegant black-tie affairs were filled with exquisite table linens and Limoges porcelain—my father invested in the renowned Haviland porcelain factory—alongside rare silverware and glassware. Every detail was a testament to their love of beauty and tradition.

The dishes were classic staples of haute bourgeoisie cuisine: fresh white asparagus with mousseline sauce, fresh salmon from the estuary grilled and served with béarnaise sauce, tender Pauillac milk-fed lamb with homemade pommes dauphine, veal Orloff, a generous cheese platter, and for dessert, either an ice bombe or peach Melba.

My father meticulously selected and prepared the wines, ensuring perfect pairings. The champagne was often Krug, whites from Domaine de Chevalier or Bonneau du Martray, and reds from our own estates (Ducru-Beaucaillou, Grand-Puy-Lacoste, and Haut-Batailley), elevating each course into a celebration of taste.

Growing up on the estate, I developed a close relationship with the vineyard, sensing its rhythms and feeling the impact of nature. Playing among the vines, I developed a fusional relationship with the land. Like our vignerons, I could feel the vineyard's rhythms when the east wind, the September sun, and the cool nights ripened the Cabernet Sauvignons, when too much rain would fall, or when the vines would bud. This connection to the land has shaped my approach to hosting and winemaking alike.

SL: Do you prefer large or small gatherings?

B-E: I appreciate both.

Small gatherings allow for personal conversations and a more intimate atmosphere, while larger celebrations reflect the grandeur of the moment.

At Ducru, we host both types of gatherings. Smaller events are perfect for honoring our 300-year legacy, creating meaningful connections with guests, and ensuring they experience the depth of our history and hospitality.

We also love grand celebrations, like the Médoc Food Festival at Beaucaillou, which we host annually for 500 guests. A gargantuan menu and a fine selection of wines—a perfect moment to explore the estate and experience the art of living at Ducru-Beaucaillou.

SL: Describe your perfect dinner party.

My ideal dinner party would be at Ducru-Beaucaillou, in our beautifully restored Great dining room. It would be a mix of friends, colleagues, and wine lovers from around the globe with great wine and seasonal dishes. Conversation would flow, but there would also be quiet moments to take in the surroundings—the vineyard, the château, and the company.

Recently, we hosted an extraordinary Michel Guérard dinner executed by his Chef, Stéphane Mak, which was pure enchantment. We reviewed Michel's iconic creations. Every dish was a masterpiece, the balance of each dish and the flavors were nothing short of sublime. We served our finest wines, including vintages from 1961 and 1955. It was a perfect evening.

SL: Do you have a signature dish?

B-E: I have many dishes I enjoy cooking, but my signature dish is Canard du Médoc en deux façons: thighs in a civet stew and breasts roasted with root vegetables. This traditional Gascon preparation is close to my heart and reflects my love for French cuisine and attention to detail. I'm happy to share the recipe with you:

Recipe for Canard Rôti en deux façons

The Day Before

Civet:

1. Take two farm-raised ducks.

2. Remove the thighs (legs) and cut them in half.

3. Remove the wings.

4. Marinate the four wings and four legs in Médoc red wine with aromatics (carrots, celery, leek, bouquet garni, onion, shallot, garlic, peppercorns, cloves, and salt).

Duck Stock:

1. Break two duck carcasses into four or six pieces.

2. Add the necks and brown everything in duck fat.

3. Add the same aromatics and sweat gently.

4. Cover with water and simmer for 2 ½ to 3 hours.

The Day Of

Preparation of "Les Cuisses en Civet"

1. Remove the leg pieces and thighs from the marinade and brown them in duck fat.

2. Flambé with a small glass of Armagnac.

3. Cover with the marinade and simmer for 1 ½ hours.

4. Set aside the duck pieces and strain the marinade.

5. Thicken the sauce with brown roux and adjust with spices and salt.

6. Add sliced black olives, pearl onions, diced ham, and mushroom caps.

7. Cook for 15 minutes, then return the duck pieces to the sauce and cook for another 15 minutes or more.

8. Serve with croutons

Roasted Duck Legs with Roots and Olives

1. Cut carrots, salsify, parsnips, celeriac, and turnips into large pieces.

2. Sweat them with two chopped shallots and bacon bits in duck fat.

3. Add duck stock and small green olives.

4. Meanwhile, brown two duck thighs in duck fat.

5. Place them on the bed of root vegetables and cook for 30-40 minutes.

6. Thinly slice the duck fillets. Cover generously with vegetables and olives.

This dish represents the "state of art" I admire in great French chefs like Michel Guérard, Alain Senderens, Paul Bocuse, or Joël Robuchon. Their dedication to technique, flavor, and perfection inspires my approach to both cooking and winemaking. I love the fine attention to detail—the balance of flavors, the slow development of textures, and the harmony that comes with perfecting such a recipe.

Pairing this dish with Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is the ideal way to complement its flavors. A radiant, extremely elegant, and perfectly balanced vintage like 2015 pairs beautifully with the civet, while an older vintage such as powerful 2010 enhances the roasted breast with its refined notes.

This meal is a perfect union of land, tradition, and craftsmanship, representing the best of French gastronomy and the spirit of our estate. It's not just a meal, but a celebration of the craft that defines both our wines and our table.

History, Heritage, and Hospitality