Written by Bridget Williams

With The EDDEN Project, Rhum J.M., one of the world's best producers of aged rhum, commits to a cleaner, greener approach to distilling.

Were it not for the fire-engine-red coloring of its buildings, the distillery operations at Rhum J.M. on the island of Martinique would be nearly indiscernible from the verdant jungle that envelops the 1,000-acre estate at the base of Mount Pelée. For the past decade, the operations in this Eden-like setting have been continuously refined to leave as light a footprint as possible on the environment. This process, now codified, was unveiled this past Earth Day as "The EDDEN Project," an acronym translated from French as "Committed to the Sustainable Development of our Ecosystems and our Nature."

The origins of the distillery and farmland, situated in a distinct terroir-driven tropical climate with high cloud cover and mineral springs, can be traced back to 1790. J.M. grows seventy-five percent of the sugarcane used in its aged rhum agricole production on steep slopes rich with volcanic soil and chooses to harvest later than other growers to impart a more terroir into the finished product.

"Creating a remarkable rum, which honors the prestigious brand Rhum J.M., requires significant patience, as the process is quite lengthy," says Karine Lassalle, Master Blender of Rhum J.M. "An aged rum for Martinique requires a minimum of three years to produce. Therefore, we need patience and passion because none of this would be possible without passion. And humility, too."

Rhum agricole differs from rum in that it's made from sugar cane juice as opposed to the fermented molasses used to distill a predominance of rums on the shelf. The sugar cane juice imparts rhum with an earthy, grassy flavor and a less syrupy mouthfeel than molasses-based rum. Rhum is also the French spelling of rum, and similar to champagne, true rhum agricole should only be labeled as such when produced in the French territories of French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique, and Réunion. Also similar to wine, Martinique has its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) that dates to the 1970s.

In Martinique, rhum production and banana cultivation are the most substantial industries, even ahead of tourism. Wanting to preserve this agricultural legacy, as part of The EDDEN Project, J.M. has utilized key practices to hone their craft within a full circular economy. "We are dedicated to making quality align with longevity," said Emmanuel Becheau, Director.

One hundred percent of plant fiber byproduct (bagasse) is repurposed for fuel, electricity, and organic fertilizer. In addition, a quarter of the company's agricultural investments are devoted to research, including AgTech. After fermentation and distillation (vinasse), one hundred percent of the residual liquid is treated and used for irrigation, conserving more than 5M gallons of water annually. The distillery produces its own cane plants, grafted from nodes in their nursery and planted near the distillery. They currently use three main varieties of cane that are particularly suited for the property's microclimate.

Social responsibility is also a core component of EDDEN, with the company proudly touting that women hold seventy-five percent of its management positions. In 2021, J.M. became part of the U.N. Global Compact, which offers its members a voluntary engagement framework on the ten principles to respect regarding human rights, the right to work, the environment, and the fight against corruption.

J.M. partnered with Péyi Vert Project, which aims to plant one million trees in Martinique in the next five years to increase local biodiversity, restore the fertility of degraded soils, fight against air pollution, and reconstitute a green belt for public enjoyment. The distillery has pledged to plant 120 trees annually, with one year already complete. This past May, they received the Bonsucro Certification, the first member from Martinique, an international not-for-profit governance group established in 2008 to promote sustainable sugarcane and reduce the environmental and social impacts of sugarcane production while recognizing the need for economic viability.

By the end of this year, the brand will obtain the Haute Valeur Environmental (HVE) Level 3 Certification, meaning "high environmental value," awarded by the French Ministry of Agriculture to farmers focused on key areas of environmental conservation. J.M. is working toward full Level 3 certification, the highest level, which includes achievement in biodiversity conservation, plant protection strategy, fertilizer use, and management of water.

"With EDDEN, we're sharing these advancements because this is the way. Exceptional because it is authentic. Exceptional because we care. Rhum J.M is at the crossroads of modernity and tradition, and there is much more on the horizon," remarked Grégoire Guéden, CEO of Spiribam.

The company is supporting a growing interest in ecotourism, taking visitors behind the "label" to see the complete process by witnessing it firsthand on the property. Plans include educational touch points throughout the distillery to explain the Rhum Agricole production process and steps toward sustainability at each point in the cycle, as well as extended guided tours to the agricultural areas of the property to showcase sugarcane cultivation.

"The lover of J.M. must be certain that behind each bottle, passionate women and men have given meaning to excellence by preserving their ecosystem, enhancing the raw material, passing on the gestures and the secrets of ancestral know-how, and sharing the love and the flavor," said Bechaeu.